Calgary shop notes: Custom fitting at Zenobia | Hollywood yohana

 It’s time to get fit! Custom fit, that is. At Zenobia (205 8th Ave. SW, Unit 201, Calgary, 403-831-3080,  Montreal designer Pina Iannelli cuts, sews and alters garments to suit each customer’s body type. “Our fall collection epitomizes attention to detail and luxurious fabrics,” says western sales director Jackie Hickson. “The use of a variety of fabrics such as suedes, leathers, alpaca, cashmere and tweeds creates a look that’s chic yet distinct.” Prices range from $150 to $3,500.


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FASHION plates: Patti Smith | Hollywood yohana

 In the world of icons, it truly doesn’t get any better than Patti Smith. We’d confess our undying devotion to the singer’s lyrics, voice, style, heart, poems and just about anything else she is responsible for (and let us tell you, there’s a lot). The recently released book of never-before-seen images, Patti Smith 1969-1976 by Judy Linn, breathes new life into her everlasting stylistic impact by showing her just before she hit the big time. We channeled Smith’s impact in the best way we know how, shopping in the name of!


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Olivia Palermo has gone from reality TV star to the face of Rochas’ newest fragrance | Hollywood yohana

Proving once again that dimples and a good sense of style can take you places, Olivia Palermo has just been declared the face of Rochas’ newest fragrance.
The pairing is an understandable one considering the similarities between Rochas’ signature refined elegance and Palermo’s own, ahem, “elevated” aesthetic (remember when she was forced to attend hosted a Guess party on The City but refused to wear Guess?). The house, with a well-known roster of perfumes, is letting nothing slip about the new scent—however all things considered, the face of a fragrance is more likely to influence a purchase than the scent itself.
So how much clout does Palermo have? Yes, the socialite turned reality star is well-loved by the fashion world, sitting front row just days ago at shows like Rebecca Taylor, Jill Stuart, and Peter Som—but does she have the same appeal of a big-name celebrity? Is this part of a new trend, like Kristen Stewart at Balenciaga, where high fashion houses opt for the unconventional? At the same time, we have to give Palermo credit for keeping her fame-seeking ways within the fashion world—which is more than we can say for other ex-MTV stars. (Kristin Cavallari, this means you.)
THEY SAID:
Fashion Foie Gras: “Could it be it’s not always the smell that sells the scent but rather the face you use along side it in campaigns?! We’ll wait and reserve judgment after the 29th of February when all will be unveiled…”
Refinery29: “Olivia Palermo comes a looong way from reality stardom.”
The Gloss: “For a long time, Olivia Palermo existed as that nebulous creature “red carpet fixture,” “street style star,” “socialite,” or (best of all) “It girl.” You’ll notice how none of those designations mean anything? [...] Is this a legitimizing move for Palermo, or is she still treading water as America’s Alexa Chung?” 

WE SAID:

Sarah Daniel, beauty editor: “Signing a socialite who really hasn’t done much of anything to be the face of your fragrance is a lame, uninspired choice. They may as well have hired a Kardashian.”



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Andrej Pejic models for a Dutch lingerie label and causes controversy, though it may not be what you think | Hollywood yohana

Androgynous model Andrej Pejic has popped up as a bride on Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2012 runway as well as the runways at LG Fashion Week—including the Pink Tartan show—and he’s even met the Queen. Now, he has a new gig modeling lingerie for Dutch chain retailer Hema. In the ads, Pejic models a double-pushup bra that promises to increase your bust by two-cup sizes. Seeing how feminine Pejic looks, even though he’s one of the most flat-chested models in the business since he’s naturally sans cleavage, the bra must be amazing, right?

Even though Pejic proves he can pull off both menswear and womenswear jobs, the ads don’t come without controversy. Apparently some people in the Netherlands are concerned that once they realize Pejic isn’t female, the ads will give the wrong message to girls about the need to be skinny. Pejic isn’t any skinnier than many female models, so would women compare themselves to a male model more than to a female model? Whether or not this is the case, Pejic’s ad is sure to stand out in a sea of lingerie ads that look too oversexed and too similar.
THEY SAID…

Joseph Tenni, Andrej Pejic’s agent: “It’s revolutionary. I’ve never known a man to do a women’s lingerie campaign before.”

The Cut: “But is it more problematic for girls with body-image issues to see a male body in ads for women’s lingerie, or on a fake one entirely? And why are these even viable options when, gosh, there are a lot of women out there with undies-campaign-worthy physiques?”
Refinery29: “It’s not that Andrej doesn’t look amazing in the bra from Dutch brand Hema (let’s get real, he looks great in everything), it’s just that it seems a bit gimmicky to use his gender-bending aesthetic to hawk gender-specific products.” 
WE SAID…
Rani Sheen, features editor: “It’s a smart marketing move to show the powers of a super-wonder-fantasy pushup bra on Andrej Pejic—it has ensured this lingerie ad doesn’t get lost in a sea of similar stuff. And it definitely demonstrates the power of a good silicone cutlet. He’s no skinnier than most underwear models (cleavage aside), and it’s hard to imagine women will compare themselves to him directly in the same way.”

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Fashion royalty romance gossip, Gucci-style | Hollywood yohana

We got a serious case of the awws when we read that Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco, Gucci’s creative director and CEO, respectively, have outed their relationship to the world after more than two years of dating. Workplace romances can be risky, but after a fateful business trip to China, the two knew that it was a risk they were willing to take.
It seems like they went about their “coming out” in all the right ways: they separately met with François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of PPR (which owns Gucci), to admit the affair—aware that they might lose their jobs—but luckily, Pinault was “very supportive.” They told the rest of the company before the rest of the world, and we’re hoping that everyone’s as supportive as we are.

This is the second day in a row that our chosen news story has been about the personal relationships of fashion royalty, and though we’re still concerned about the privacy limits that are breached, we totally get that Giannini and di Marco wanted to come clean. It’s nice to hear about a thriving relationship, and we can’t help but imagine that this one is a bit of an Italian fairy tale—full of beautiful clothes, hair products, late night dinners in small cafes, and lots of red wine.
THEY SAID…
Fashionologie: “Although many fashion brands are or have been run by couples — Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge — this marks the first time the couple is not the owners of the brand but rather its employees.”
Frida Giannini: “You don’t want to leave the door open for any criticism. There was transparency, but it was not universal; it was logical. Now there will be more. But that doesn’t mean that Patrizio and I will start to kiss in a meeting.”
Patrizio di Marco: “The relationship Frida and I have is very serious. When in life you choose someone to be with… someone you are looking to spend your life with–well, this is a match of minds and souls. We don’t agree on everything. But you only really argue when you have something important to argue about. Otherwise you realise it’s not worth it.”
François-Henri Pinault: “This is a family business—it was started by my father, and I know how that can feel and seem to the outside world, but I also know how much that makes you be strict with yourself. And I knew them, so I knew if anything this would make them more demanding with themselves.”
WE SAID…
Sarah Daniel, beauty editor: “Someone’s love life is not important or any of our business, but if you’re a public figure there is no such thing as a private life anymore. It’s unfortunate, but that’s the reality. If you’re someone like Frida or Jenna, thinking you can have a covert courtship is naïve and fighting it only makes us want to know more, turning the most mild-mannered girl into a bloodhound. Humans are nosy and voyeuristic by nature, so of course we’re all very interested in who our heroes and heroines are sleeping with. Not only that, we want to know what their house looks like, what’s in their closet, and on their bathroom counter. It’s why sites like Into the Gloss are so popular.”


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Fashion news: Hailee’s new gig, Karlie’s spill and Carla’s pregnancy | Hollywood yohana

14-year-old Oscar nominee Hailee Steinfeld is the Fall face of Miu Miu! We couldn’t think of a more impossibly perfect pairing.

Elizabeth Olsen does her big sisters proud and sports The Row in Cannes.
Anna Wintour advocates New Yorkers for Marriage Equality in an inspiring PSA. Go Anna!
Moscot designs limited-edition specs in collaboration with Terry Richardson.
Model-of-the-moment Lindsey Wixon tumbles thrice at Naomi Campbell’s Fashion for Relief show in Cannes yesterday. Kerplunk!
According to her father-in-law, First Lady of France and former model Carla Bruni is officially preggers with her first child! Congrats!
The release date of Elle Macpherson’s reality show, Fashion Star, gets pushed back to Spring 2012. [Racked]
Gaga and Gaultier get along wonderfully throughout their new documentary… except for the part when he dresses her up like a nun and spanks her.


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We spot Western Canada Fashion Week’s ones to watch | Hollywood yohana

Western Canada Fashion Week may be in its seventh season, but we don’t got no seven-year itch. Things in Edmonton are looking bright with two- and three-tone colour blocking, and flavours sweet, sexy, and sultry recalling the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s. Here’s a hotlist of six standout WCFW designers—the ones to watch, the clothing we seek.

Malorie Urbanovitch
Spaghetti straps adorn silks in colours you thought should never be in the same room. Bright, carrot orange on pale copper and moonstone blue make for an all-at-once fresh and retro brew. We’re coveting the smoking jacket, bright lips to match, and lightweight, relaxed fit in high-waist pants and shorts.
SUKA Clothing by Alisha Schick
A local design vet and household name, SUKA alluded to the ’70s with two-tone turbans, overlapping floral skirts, signature SUKA cutouts, and black staples. Sweet-with-an-edge and easily incorporated into your spring or fall wardrobe (can we get a dose of that hair, too?).
Beverly Gan
Large and loud geometrical shapes played delicate as appliqués on this London-based (but purely Edmontonian) designer’s collection, but chic and sleek found a place in white pleated shorts and classy, Audrey-like necklines. This is how you do structured femininity.
Genette Salgado
Salgado invites you to come play, too, in an English garden with more lovely appliqués (a Salgado fetish) on florals and sweetheart necklines. The vibrant blue accents added an unexpected twist.
Serendipity by Kelsey McIntyre
Serendipity had girls giggling with its blatant vintage influences and whimsical, peek-a-boo lace slips. Sugary sweet, this is the dress made for a spring picnic. It’s no wonder McIntyre has the bragging rights to a popular custom bridal business.
LUXX by Derek Jagodzinsky
Man oh man, this LUXX line is ladylike like Mad Men. With sexy sophistication in precisely three colours—bold red, saffron yellow, and charcoal grey—this collection is for a woman who lives to turn heads.

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Just because you can genetically modify a stingray’s skin for a “stylish” pair of custom shoes doesn’t mean you should | Hollywood yohana

In today’s “things that may be ethically questionable” news, the aptly named Rayfish Footwear will not only make you sneakers out of stingray skin, they will also genetically modify an alive-but-doomed stingray so that its skin’s patterns and etchings are one-of-a-kind. You know…so that your shoes, which will begin at $1,800, are one of a kind.
As the people at Rayfish Footwear describe it, your shoe will “grow” to your specified design choices thanks to a team of scientists who farm stingrays in the company’s Thai aquaculture facility.
The company’s website explains this process in heavily copywritten detail: “Rayfish Footwear uses a patented process of bio-customization, which allows you to design your own living, transgenic stingray. Using the DNA on file in our genetic library, you can combine the skin patterns and coloration from dozens of different species. Access the richness of natural selection. Evolve an infinite variety of shoes.”
Though the company won’t officially launch until later this year, they have soft-launched their products online through design contests. By logging onto their site, you can experiment with different templates and then enter your creation into a contest. The winners each win a free pair of shoes, and the pleasure of knowing a stingray “grew” those shoes just for them.
While we’re sure there’s a market for custom, high-end sneakers (even ones that look like they belong on stage at Cirque du Soleil) it’s worth noting that while stingrays aren’t currently endangered, there are several species of the fish that are vulnerable to endangerment. And of course, the whole DNA-engineering-for-the-sake-of-fashion thing has “PETA uproar” written all over it.
So what do you think: are the shoes ethically sound, or do you think their process of “growing” shoes is cruel and/or just plain weird?
THEY SAID…

Jihan Forbes: “Now, we love a good leather shoe, but there is something a little bit creepy about ‘growing’ (their words) a sneaker.”
Marc Wilson: “Truthfully, I’m not sure if Rayfish’s addictive mix and match UI makes me feel like a hip consumer or an all-consuming monster.”
WE SAID…

Caitlan Moneta, fashion market editor: “While I’m sure PETA is peeved, I’m blown away by Rayfish’s feat of bioengineering. Maybe we can work on finding a worthier use for the technology.”


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Fashion news: FHM is sorry, Courtney Love says no to Topshop and Stefano Pilati is afraid of bloggers | Hollywood yohana

 







FHM apologizes for making fun of androgynous model, Andrej Pejic.

Franca Sozzani stays ahead of the curve. Vogue Italia’s editor-in-chief features three plus-sized models on the magazine’s June 2011 cover.
Courtney Love declines an offer to replace Kate Moss at Topshop. [Racked]
Leighton in love? Check out the Gossip Girl star’s video commercial for Vera Wang’s fragrance, Lovestruck.
Yves Saint Laurent‘s hate mail: Tom Ford reveals that the fashion legend wasn’t too thrilled when he designer took over at the French house.
Billion dollar baby—Forbes reports that Gisele may soon become the world’s first billionaire supermodel.
What scares Stefano Pilati? Bloggers, apparently. The Yves Saint Laurent designer talks about the reception he’s received from the web community.
Has all the sun got you craving a new bathing suit? Well, Alexander Wang is reported to be diving into swimwear for resort.
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Nail Corner: A daisy petal moon manicure inspired by a very ‘70s print from Red Valentino | Hollywood yohana

 Daisy, daisy… doesn’t this manicure make you want a bicycle built for two? Or at the very least, a pair of Red Valentino shoes? The pretty floral pattern, which is rather neutral except for a burst of bright yellow, served as inspiration for this week’s Nail Corner. The result is a modified moon manicure, with added dimension thanks to the pearlescent background which contrasts—yet also camouflages–the taupe petals. Ready to daisy up your own fingers?

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Boutique Denis Gagnon opens in Old Montreal | Hollywood yohana

From the opening of his new boutique to his upcoming collaborations, it seems that Montreal titan Denis Gagnon (along with his signature thick black Lanvin frames) is just about everywhere these days. “You certainly are a man with vision, just how strong are those glasses anyway?” I asked him last week at the opening party for his new boutique in Old Montreal. Be it modesty or my seriously awful French, Gagnon just shrugged.

Designed by industrial designer Étienne Hotte, the subterranean shop recalls the designer’s own arty aesthetic by juxtaposing contemporary clean lines with Old World stonewalls. It’s a space as exquisite as Gagnon’s designs, which partygoers flipped to try on and touch. Alongside his winning striped black and white collection for Spring, hung one-of-a-kind haute couture pieces that first appeared in his retrospective exhibit at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Also on show were the vertigo-inducing platforms, as seen in his Spring runway show, produced in collaboration with Aldo. (All proceeds will go to the Farha Foundation, to help in the fight against AIDS.) Between nibbles and flights of Champagne, Gagnon announced another collaboration, this time with Lancôme, who will put out a limited edition makeup collection to accompany his Fall collection, which launches in mid-August. Gagnon, who is perhaps at home in the basement, (didn’t you see the film Je m’appelle Denis Gagnon by filmmaker Khoa Lê?) also installed his atelier in the back.
Among diehards and partygoers, several designers attended the fête, including Montreal veterans Philippe Dubuc and Marie Saint Pierre, newcomer Travis Taddeo, as well as Cinthya Chalifoux who worked with Gagnon to produce the uniforms for Hôtel Place d’Armes, to be launched “très bientôt,” according to Mathieu De Latour, Gagnon’s assistant. But for this Gagnon-loving city, soon will never be soon enough.

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Hannah MacGibbon out and Clare Waight Keller in at Chloé | Hollywood yohana

It seems we can’t go a week without a changing of the guard at a major fashion label, and this morning that honour belonged to Chloé. With two consecutive tweets heard round the fashion world, the venerated French label announced that, after months of hushed murmurs, creative director Hannah MacGibbon was leaving the company.

Having hosted such talents as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, the label has had a tough time keeping a lockdown on its talent living up to the expectations they’d set. When Philo left the label in 2006, she was replaced by Paolo Melim Andersson, whose hard-edged aesthetic was a major contrast to the playful girliness the label became known for under Philo, and lasted a mere three seasons. In March of 2008, MacGibbon, who’d been with the company since 2001, was given the creative helm, only to be dismissed from her post three years later.
Clare Waight Keller, who has experience at Gucci, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label, Calvin Klein and, most recently, Pringle of Scotland, will be taking over as creative director June 1.  “I am thrilled to be joining one of the most prestigious design houses in Paris,” she said via a statement on the brand’s website. “Chloé is a brand that conveys a beautiful sense of effortless femininity and vivacious sophistication that I look forward to continuing into the next era.”
Judging by her most recent looks at Pringle, we can expect Keller help Chloé return to its status as a brand for the most laissez-faire of the cool. While we’ll certainly mourn MacGibbon’s penchant for scalloped edges and luxe ‘70s colour palettes, we hope this match is made to last.


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Sketch to Screen: SNL’s Kristen Wiig is Hollywood’s coolest comedienne | Hollywood yohana

To any fan of Saturday Night Live, the name Kristen Wiig conjures her many memorable characters: unabashed one-upper Penelope, the quick-to-comment Target cashier, a Chardonnay-swilling Kathie Lee Gifford. Those who don’t make SNL a standing date may remember Wiig as Will Forte’s sidekick with Farrah Fawcett hair in MacGruber or Katherine Heigl’s bitchy E! co-worker in Knocked Up. But with this month’s release of Bridesmaids, Wiig’s first starring film role (she also co-wrote the script), she’s graduating from sketch- and scene-stealer to the ranks of leading ladies Tina Fey and Amy Poehler.

While Fey trades in old-maid awkwardness and Poehler in goofy grins, Wiig has a cool-girl factor and style. She likes Stella McCartney, Opening Ceremony and Halston Heritage. “When I get dressed up, I tend to go more on the edgier side than classic,” she says, adding in a teasing, signature Wiig-ian voice: “I like to mix and match my accessories.”
In Bridesmaids, Wiig plays a smart single trying to support her bride-to-be best friend (played by Maya Rudolph) and helm a wedding-party crew of babes and misfits. You’d be forgiven for assuming it’s a cosmos-and-canapés version of The Hangover, but Wiig is quick to dispel that notion.


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Try a softer version of YSL’s sultry spring look in just 4 easy steps! | Hollywood yohana

“Young, eccentric and rich” were the words makeup artist Pat McGrath used to describe the beauty look she dreamed up for Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring 2012 show. McGrath painted models’ eyelids metallic brown, their lips metallic red and bleached away their brows. The look was confident and glamorous, if not a little bit severe.
I created a softer version of this dramatic look for real life with a few small tweaks and just four products. By opting for a wash of colour on the eyes instead of opaque brown, and by highlighting your brows with tinted gel instead of bleaching them off, you’ll be super glam without looking harsh. Finish with a pop of crimson red lipstick and you’ve got an elegant look for any occasion that requires an extra jolt of confidence!

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Spring beauty report 2012: Rainbow bright | Hollywood yohana

 Bold, statement-making lips have legs: Witness the tomato-red mouth topped with neon orange powder pigment at Jason Wu, the eight acidic shades at Mary Katrantzou and the magenta mouth with a darkened centre at Prabal Gurung, meant to look like “an orchid coming out of the lips,” says makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. Whatever the hue or texture, what’s important is that it makes a major impact. But this season, colour wasn’t confined to the face; it migrated to the head. It was first spied at Thakoon, where hairstylist Odile Gilbert applied powdered clay, either dry or mixed with water, to models’ heads in a nod to Holi. Then at Narciso Rodriguez, coiffeur Eugene Souleiman spray-painted conical twists in one of five temporary colours. Three weeks later, Souleiman was at it again at Issey Miyake, referencing the flowers in the collection with tinted, tulip-shaped hairstyles. We especially liked the ones that resembled Triple Rockets popsicles.

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Inside Lainey Gossip’s first Vancouver SMUT Soiree: Tales of Miley, Nicole, Scarlett and the gossip hounds who embrace them | Hollywood yohana

Vancouver’s most enthusiastic gossip hounds headed to the city’s first, and hotly anticipated, SMUT Soiree at Vancouver Urban Winery last night, hosted by The Society and LaineyGossip The cocktail party and panel discussion, led by eTalk correspondent and famed gossip Elaine “Lainey” Lui and television host-slash-actor, Dan Levy, dished the dirt for a hungry audience, finally served after envying Toronto’s six-year SMUT streak. For Lainey, it was only fitting that she indulge her adopted home and have Levy join her in moderating the panel, because Vancouver is where the two originally “fell in love” when covering the city’s 2010 Olympic Winter Games. “That’s when we became boyfriend and girlfriend,” she joked.
The proud friend told both me and the audience that her BFF had just returned from filming Admission, a film starring Tina Fey, Paul Rudd and Michael Sheen, but despite her beaming endorsement, Levy modestly added, “I don’t have a very big part, so let’s not inflate things.” Related: Dan, sharing the big screen with Tina Fey (!!!) needs no inflating.

Lainey and Levy began the panel portion of the evening with tales of celebrity encounters (note: do not ever make ladies’ room chit chat with Scarlett Johansson) and shared their insight into the biggest gossip as of late, which according to Lainey, is Miley Cyrus’s engagement to Liam Hemsworth (People magazine broke the news earlier this week). No, she doesn’t suspect there’s anything sinister or shotgun about it, stating, “She’s young but not pregnant yet,” and with a perfectly timed hesitation added, “but I’m not saying she’s never been pregnant.” And so we continued.
Partygoers like TV’s Fiona Forbes and Natalie Langston, who were donning their best cocktail attire (although I must say Dan Levy wins my vote for Best Dressed with his Navajo print trousers and signature tortoiseshell specs), were also treated to primping, coiffing and touch-ups by teams of beauty experts from Stila Cosmetics, John Frieda and Ardell throughout the evening.
Lainey graciously thanked her guests for all of their continued support over the years, because at the end of the day, like many of us writer/blogger types, her readers motivate her. “When I write about how f—ked up Nicole Kidman’s face is, I’m doing it for you!”


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Would you buy Kardashian-branded makeup (kakeup)? | Hollywood yohana

If the Kardashian Klan’s recent foray into the music video biz managed to finally push you over the edge, then plug your ears—you won’t want to hear what they have planned next. Kim, Kourtney and Khloe Kardashian have officially announced the next step in their mission of world domination by launching the cosmetics line Khroma Beauty, in partnership with Boldface Licensing + Branding.
“Growing up we would play with my mom’s makeup and from a young age I always wanted to be a makeup artist! Of course now makeup plays such a a [sic] huge role in all of our lives, whether we’re on camera, at a shoot glammed up or just keeping it natural day to day and it’s a dream come true to be able to create our own line of products to share with you guys,” Kim Kardashian wrote on her blog Tuesday.
The line, which will be available this December in Ulta stores, is said to embody a “luxury feel and quality to the mass customer, with exquisite formulas to emulate the eyes, lips and complexion looks for which the Kardashian sisters are famous.”
This isn’t the first time the sisters have attached their name to a product (and it probably won’t be the last). The Sears-backed Kardashian Kollection clothing line, the Kardashian Kolor collaboration with OPI and their ill-fated partnership with QuickTrim, which they’re now being sued for based on allegations that they made “false claims” about the diet supplement’s effects (a total Kardashian Konundrum) are just a few of the products they’ve lent their faces to and padded their bank accounts for.
We have to give it to the Kardashian sisters: when it comes to makeup, they have cultivated a distinctively smouldering and impossibly impeccable “Kardashian look.” But is their look something that the average consumer will buy into? What about you: will you be snapping up some Khroma Beauty products or are you completely Kardashianed out?

THEY SAID…

Natasha Hill: “If you thought that Google was taking over the world, have you noticed the Kardashians lately?”
The Bert Show: “Gonna give you one guess as to which celebs are behind the name #KardazzleKompacts. K’mon, look at the first letter.”
WE SAID…

Paige Dzenis, associate online editor: “If customers (and I don’t doubt that there will be many!) are expecting to get the real Kardashian beauty experience, then Khroma better be selling foundation by the tub.”

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