Men’s style guide: Custom tailoring 101 with Don Fabien Lee | Hollywood yohana
Finding a tailor—like a good mechanic, or accountant—may not be the easiest task. But a there are a few tips that will set you in the right direction, and into the best fitting suit you’ve ever worn. We spoke with Don Fabien Lee, owner and head tailor at Toronto’s Trend Custom Tailors (306 Sherbourne St., Toronto, 416-596-8744, trendtailors.)about what a good tailor does, how bespoke beats off-the-rack and how a tailor treats his trade.
What should someone look for, or expect, when finding a tailor?
“A real tailor is someone who can cut, sew, and put together a garment from start to finish. He should be able to do jackets, trousers, vests, shirts—all of it. What every individual looks for in a tailor is very different. The way [your tailor] interacts with you becomes very important because the product doesn’t exist yet. First and foremost, it should be based upon a level of communication and comfort.”
How much guidance does a tailor provide if you only have a vague idea in mind?
“It’s getting the client to communicate with you effectively. If it is a visual level, you have to aide him that way, or if he’s very descriptive with his words, then engage him that way. Because you are dealing with a very intangible notion, you need answers that can start defining it. Very rarely do you walk into a store and deal with the artisan. A real tailor is passionate about what he does, so you’re going to get the level of service that you require.”
What’s the process of having a suit tailored, from start to finish?
“Our garments have to be comfortable, be worn every day, and more than once. Be worn to work, to dinner meetings after, and worn out [at night]. A man’s suit is a very functional garment. So, measurements are taken according to the dialogue, and fabric that is spoken about. Typically, three fittings are all that you should need: A basted or block fitting; a second, skeleton fitting; and a third, slip fitting. It’s a ritual.”
How are the garments made?
“About 85 to 90 per cent of our work is still done by hand. The more you touch something, the more you’re able to pass on a feeling. Everything is done in the atelier. There is nothing that is sent out. I like to take about four weeks to go through the process, or more, depending on whether or not you’re choosing fabric from stock or it’s being ordered.”
What are some landmarks on the body that don’t fit well with off-the-rack suits?
“The top sixth of the body: your shoulders, chest area and trapezius muscles. There’s a figure analysis done in made-to-measure that’s done in a very general way. But it’s only by giving a proper fitting that you can truly correct and balance a coat properly on someone. Paper patterns need to be established for clients and every cloth should connote a different feeling. That feeling should be translated into different details: width of lapel, length of coat, slimness or looseness on the shoulder. Bespoke means ‘spoken for.’ You speak for the garment, and your tailor as well. That’s important.”
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