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Kate Middleton hits Wimbledon in one of our favourite recycled Alexander McQueen dresses! | Hollywood yohana




After a few courtside Pippa spottings, Kate and Wills finally made their appearance at Wimbledon today, and in what can’t be much of a shock, Kate’s wearing another recycled dress. The off-white navy-piped cable-knit sweater dress by Alexander McQueen is one of our favourites from her visit to Canada last year, and it looks just as apropos for today’s engagement as it did last year in quite a different one. When worn during her time in P.E.I. last year, this number felt oh so Anne of Green Gables, but doesn’t it just suit the tennis court perfectly as well? All she needs is a wooden racket and a sweatband and she’s an Ivy Leaguer


 Kate’s wearing her tried and tested Jaeger “Kate” bag, Princess Diana’s diamond sapphire earrings and navy Prada heels (not pictured) but you probably knew that already, didn’t you? Kate’s accessory choices are easier and easier to identify lately which is certainly a testament to how far she stretches the pieces in her wardrobe. Bravo, Kate!


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The complete Fall 2012 campaign gallery featuring Burberry, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Versace, Vuitton and more! | Hollywood yohana




To celebrate fashion’s biggest season, we’ve put all of the most major ads (So much image slicing!) together in one space. We’ll be adding new creatives as they become available, so be sure to check back for all the biggest and best.

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A tale of two fashion personalities: The scoop on Tyra’s and Tavi’s adventures in writing | Hollywood yohana




Other than fashion, what do 15-year-old blogger Tavi Gevinson and Tyra Banks have in common? They’re both set to release books in the near future. While book launches are nothing new to the fashion world, the typical material is usually limited to collections of glossy photos or instructive style guides. You may (or may not) be shocked to find out that this isn’t the case with either Tavi’s or Tyra’s upcoming ventures.
In true Tyra style, the talk-show host and former supermodel hit the streets of New York on Tuesday in a pink catsuit and a “smize” (a sparkly, gold feather-shaped eyepiece named after the term she coined on America’s Next Top Model) to promote her upcoming fantasy novel, Modelland. The antics didn’t end there, though, as Banks stopped by Good Morning America to talk about the book, scheduled for release on September 13. Apparently, she’s been working on Modelland for five years—the plot is loosely based on her life and is being described as Harry Potter with models instead of wizards. You have to give Tyra some points for imagination, right?
As for Tavi, she seems to be avoiding the fiction route and sticking to what she knows best. After a sleepover with Marisa Meltzer, the Style Rookie blogger and Girl Power author came up with the idea to publish a book on teenage experiences. The proposed zine-style Diary is said to include diverse content: from instructions on how to make a friendship bracelet to a manifesto on teenage crushes, and even some art from Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Because being friends with the Mulleavy sisters and having sleepovers with 34-year-old writers is really something most teens experience.
WHAT THEY SAID…
Tyra Banks on her eyepiece: “Okay, so. In Modelland, this fantasy world that I created for my novel, if you find one of these—which I call a Smize— it increases your chances of getting into the most exclusive school in the entire world, the school that creates the most amazing supermodels called Intoxibellas. It increases your chances 90%.”
Adam Vossen, StyleCaster, on Tavi: “If the book contains even half of the wit and all-over-the-place pop culture references that Style Rookie has (Tavi calls Miss Havisham of Great Expectations an HBIC–I totally LOL’d) then I for one will totally buy it.”
Ellie Krupnick, Huffington Post, on Tyra: “To accomplish her goal of total cultural domination, Tyra has enrolled in Harvard Business School, shacking up in the dorms and studying alongside her stunned classmates. In addition, of course, to gunning for her Pulitzer for ‘Modelland’.” [Huffington Post]
Amy Odell, The Cut, on Tavi: “The soonest the book could come out [is] a year from now — assuming it sells. But it’s Tavi so it probably will.”
WHAT WE SAID…
Michael White, Managing Editor: “It makes sense that Tyra’s book is a fantasy while Tavi’s is firmly grounded in reality. It reflects where both of them seem to live their everyday lives.”

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Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington in doll form | Hollywood yohana




Just when you thought Anna Wintour couldn’t get any cuddlier, she’s now available in doll form, along with fellow Vogue editrix Grace Coddington, for one lucky bidder. In celebration of this year’s Fashion’s Night Out the luxury retailer has commissioned New York-based artist Andrew Yang, who creates gorgeous wide-eyed fashion dolls, to create one-of-a-kind couture likenesses of the pair. “I had to special-order Anna’s wig and cut it myself to get the bob right,” Yang told The Moment. “And Grace’s hair was the right color, but it needed a perm.” The dolls are on the auction block, on charitybuzz. with proceeds going to The New York City AIDS Fund.


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Men’s style guide: Custom tailoring 101 with Don Fabien Lee | Hollywood yohana




Finding a tailor—like a good mechanic, or accountant—may not be the easiest task. But a there are a few tips that will set you in the right direction, and into the best fitting suit you’ve ever worn. We spoke with Don Fabien Lee, owner and head tailor at Toronto’s Trend Custom Tailors (306 Sherbourne St., Toronto, 416-596-8744, trendtailors.)about what a good tailor does, how bespoke beats off-the-rack and how a tailor treats his trade.
What should someone look for, or expect, when finding a tailor?
“A real tailor is someone who can cut, sew, and put together a garment from start to finish. He should be able to do jackets, trousers, vests, shirts—all of it. What every individual looks for in a tailor is very different. The way [your tailor] interacts with you becomes very important because the product doesn’t exist yet. First and foremost, it should be based upon a level of communication and comfort.”
How much guidance does a tailor provide if you only have a vague idea in mind?
“It’s getting the client to communicate with you effectively. If it is a visual level, you have to aide him that way, or if he’s very descriptive with his words, then engage him that way. Because you are dealing with a very intangible notion, you need answers that can start defining it. Very rarely do you walk into a store and deal with the artisan. A real tailor is passionate about what he does, so you’re going to get the level of service that you require.”
What’s the process of having a suit tailored, from start to finish?
“Our garments have to be comfortable, be worn every day, and more than once. Be worn to work, to dinner meetings after, and worn out [at night]. A man’s suit is a very functional garment. So, measurements are taken according to the dialogue, and fabric that is spoken about. Typically, three fittings are all that you should need: A basted or block fitting; a second, skeleton fitting; and a third, slip fitting. It’s a ritual.”
How are the garments made?
“About 85 to 90 per cent of our work is still done by hand. The more you touch something, the more you’re able to pass on a feeling. Everything is done in the atelier. There is nothing that is sent out. I like to take about four weeks to go through the process, or more, depending on whether or not you’re choosing fabric from stock or it’s being ordered.”
What are some landmarks on the body that don’t fit well with off-the-rack suits?
“The top sixth of the body: your shoulders, chest area and trapezius muscles. There’s a figure analysis done in made-to-measure that’s done in a very general way. But it’s only by giving a proper fitting that you can truly correct and balance a coat properly on someone. Paper patterns need to be established for clients and every cloth should connote a different feeling. That feeling should be translated into different details: width of lapel, length of coat, slimness or looseness on the shoulder. Bespoke means ‘spoken for.’ You speak for the garment, and your tailor as well. That’s important.”


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Art or commerce? We zoom in on the explosion of designer video | Hollywood yohana

From left: Ruth Hogben’s Fall 2009 Film for Gareth Pugh (courtesy of showstudio.com), David Lynch directs Marion Cotillard for Dior, 2010, and nowness.com’s <em>Beautiful Rebels</em> by Ryan Mcginley for Edun, 2012 (courtesy of nowness.com)


Fashion Television (RIP) was ahead of its time in several ways, and here is one of them: In 1985, when executive producer Jay Levine launched the program, he imagined it might become a channel for short narrative videos about clothing. Fashion films, now so inescapable a phenomenon, were then just a thought without a name: if music videos could revolutionize the way we consume pop, couldn’t a little cinematography do the same for clothing? The ’70s had seen then-living legends Guy Bourdin and Richard Avedon experiment with the moving image, and as film-recording cameras became less expensive, it seemed likely they’d land in the hands of younger, emerging lensmen. As MTV was to music videos, so might Fashion Television be to this new mode of image-making.
It didn’t happen that way, though. Fashion Television burgeoned worldwide, becoming the Jeanne Beker–led interview and news program we loved so long (it ended—to the joy of nobody—in April). Fashion film, meanwhile, lay dormant through two more decades, until bang: YouTube. The video-sharing site was launched early in 2005 and by the time Google acquired it in 2006 for $1.65 billion, it had given music videos a second life. For fashion videos, it was more like a first life. And what a life. In seven years we’ve watched them go from Nick Knight’s living room to the very halls of Versailles (with a stunning Inez and Vinoodh video for Christian Dior Fall 2012). The medium has its own online compendiums, university courses and festivals; a television channel wouldn’t be nearly enough.
“When a designer produces a piece of clothing, it is to be seen in movement,” Knight told Penny Martin, editor-in-chief of The Gentlewoman, in an interview for his site, Showstudio., which has become the self-declaimed home of fashion film. In 2005, though, he was rightly hesitant to call it that. He had begun the two-year project Moving Fashion, commissioning not only photographers (himself, Tim Walker, Peter Lindbergh) but also models (Lily Cole) and editors (Katie Grand) to shoot 30-second clips of clothing in kinesis. “With the advent of the internet, the garment can now be shown in the way it was intended,” he said. “What I’m asking people to do is to express fashion in movement. It’s subtly different from asking someone to make a film.”


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OMFG Cher Horowitz’s been Coveteured | Hollywood yohana

 


Remember when Worn Journal made a 60 second tribute to Clueless last summer and we freaked out a whole bunch? Well, it looks like the gals over at The Coveteur have revitalized that urge with their latest closet peek: inside the fictional closet of the film’s grand dame, Cher Horowitz. A name so synonymous with epic style that she need not even be referred to as “not a real person,” Cher is the epitome when we talk about mid-nineties icons. Similarly, her fantasy closet (complete with its own computer guide and rotating rack) is so downright enviable its provoked squeals since the film’s debut in 1995. ANYWAYS. No need to say more. Just go have a peek and squeal and stuff.  




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Take a look back at 50 seriously stylish years of The Rolling Stones (plus, enter to win your own copy of their new book!) | Hollywood yohana




It’s hard to believe The Rolling Stones are celebrating 50 years together today (or maybe not so hard if you’ve ever gotten a close-up of Mick’s face), but the original rock style gods are indeed ringing the milestone in. You’re welcome, Hedi Slimane/Johnny Depp/Julian Casablancas/Pete Doherty/…Britney Spears?

Starting with the band’s first jaunt on stage at London’s Marquee Club on July 12, 1962, the Stones have been through five decades of riotous partying, hair-raising performances, illustrious relationships and above all else, some of the most amazing singles modern music history’s ever known. To celebrate the Stones’ birthday, music journalist Hanspeter Kuenzeler has teamed up with The eBook People to put together the two-part 50 Years: The Rolling Stones – Views From the Inside, Views From the Outside, a 2000+ page collection of the best journalistic material spanning the band’s half-century-long run. The book will touch on everything from Mick Jagger’s famously stylish marriage in St. Tropez to Bianca Jagger to the various members’ many struggles with drugs (including Brian Jones’ death and Keith Richards’ infamous arrest for possession of heroin in Toronto).
Read on to see some of the most pivotal moments in The Rolling Stones’ history and enter for your chance to win a copy of the ebook by telling us the name of your favourite Stones song over Twitter . We’ll be crowning a winner on Monday.



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Teenage activists are pointing a finger at teen-girl targeted magazines to change their image editing policies | Hollywood yohana




Considering the fact that toe surgery has apparently become a “thing” (cosmetic surgery to slim down obese toes, for those of you not in the know), we’re apt to believe the girls behind SPARK Movement when they say that the pressure has never been stronger when it comes to conforming to beauty ideals.
These teenage activists are pointing a finger at teen-girl targeted magazines like Seventeen and Teen Vogue, saying their continued airbrushing and underrepresentation of “real” models is contributing to unattainable, unrealistic beauty ideals. They called on the magazines to completely cut out Photoshop (even down to airbrushing out pimples or brightening up a smile) and to focus on putting real girls in their publications.
“[These magazines] bombard young women with images that have been distorted and digitally altered . . . these photoshopped images are extremely dangerous to girls like us who read them, because they keep telling us: you are not skinny enough, pretty enough or perfect enough. Well, neither are the girls in the pictures!” the SPARK girls write on their home site.
Last week, SPARK member Julia Bluhm managed to pull together over 85,000 signatures for a petition to Seventeen, and the magazine actually responded. They published a “Body Peace Treaty” in their print edition, stating that they “never have, never will” alter the shape of models’ faces or bodies (which isn’t promising any change, really), and that they will make efforts to be more transparent with what goes into their editing process.
Following their co-SPARK member’s success, Carina Cruz and Emma Stydahar tried their hand at Teen Vogue yesterday, staging a guerilla red carpet runway show in front of the Conde Nast buildings and scoring an interview with Editor-in-Chief Amy Astley. Despite having racked up about 35,000 signatures for their Teen Vogue–specific petition, the girls told New York Daily News they were disappointed with their rushed conversation with Astley.
Though Cruz and Stydahar evidently did not get the response they were looking for, Teen Vogue’s publicist Erin Kaplan issued a statement saying the magazine is already careful to not retouch models’ body shapes in their pages.
While we doubt magazines can honestly promise a full rehaul of their image editing processes, considering how entrenched they are in years-long practices, we do commend the girls for trying to encourage their peers to seek real beauty. What do you think: should glossies continue to offer aspirational if unrealistic images of beauty, or should they start featuring girls that teens can more easily relate to?

THEY SAID…
Charlotte Cowles: “[…] While Teen Vogue could have been a little more tactful about the fact that they’re not going to change anything, at least they didn’t beat around the bush with showy, vague pacts.”
Laurie Penny, author: “Teenage girls make Teen Vogue squirm over airbrushing. Generation Z are already bloody amazing.”
WE SAID…
Rani Sheen, copy and health editor: “The Vogue family likes to do things on their own terms, and they have taken steps in this direction in the recent past with their Health Initiative. So maybe they will come up with something similar to address Photoshopping in Teen Vogue. Retouching is heavily entrenched in magazine production, but the growing awareness around the problem of using it to change body shapes rather than just clean up distracting details in photographs could prove to be a force of positive change.”

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