Digi print mix ‘n’ match via the London based label, Tabernacle Twins | Hollywood yohana

Created from the brilliant imagination of Danish-born designer Vibe Lundermark, the London-based label, Tabernacle Twins, is the latest to catch our eye. Lundermark is fairly new on the scene—she graduated from the Royal College of Art in London in 2009 with an MA in womenswear and knitwear, and her first collection showed at Fall 2010 Copenhagen Fashion Week. We only caught on recently but as we dive into collections past, we cant help but be hypnotized.
Lundermark’s inspiration for her line comes from the twins themselves, a pair of identical fictitious muses who, for each collection, embark on folkloric journeys in style. Each collection focuses on unexpected shapes and pairings, digital prints, and graphic knitwear. The Fall 2011 collection, seen here, is close to perfection—seemingly clashing patterns in printed pants, dresses, and jumpsuits, are surprisingly cohesive. The proportions are unique and playful, as are the pink, gold, aqua lamé-like details. With so much knitwear and satin, and luxe colours to match, what more could you want?

Thakoon’s first-ever bright lip | Hollywood yohana

“The inspiration is Audrey Hepburn,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal backstage at Thakoon. But that didn’t translate into liquid liner, one of the beauty signatures of the screen starlet. “We didn’t want it to be too literal,” explained Kendal. Instead, she did a bold red lip using Nars lipstick in “Heat Wave” and added neon-pink pigment on top for “a bright, luminous quality.” (Later I heard the designer himself doing an interview in which he mentioned it was the first time they’d done a lip at the show.) Cheeks were enhanced with Nars Multiple in “Undress Me,” (launching this fall), while lids were treated to a bit of white shimmer in the form of Nars eyeshadow in “Tibet.”
In keeping with the homage to Hepburn, Odile Gilbert created feathery baby bangs on all the models, which were actually the ends of their own hair—put in place after being wrapped into French twists. To begin, she amped up the volume with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and then put the manes through copious amounts of teasing. After creating the updo perfectly, “we destroy it a bit,” said Gilbert. Halos of Kérastase Double Force hairspray kept things in place and Fibre Architecte sealed and polished the ends.


Baby Beckham! Blue cat eyes! Our top 10 backstage beauty moments from New York Fashion Week | Hollywood yohana

What felt like a week-long whirlwind at the time (and realistically, actually was!) has now come to a close. From wind-tunnel hair to blue cat eyes, a Harper Beckham cameo, and one awesome T-shirt, here’s our top 10 backstage moments from New York Fashion Week.


7 of the best manicures and nail art designs from the Fall 2012 runways! | Hollywood yohana

It’s no secret that we’re huge fans of inventive manicures (check out our DIY Nails video series and Nail Corner column for further proof) and without a doubt the best inspiration comes from the runways. It’s worth pointing out that nude nails—that is, sheer taupe shades in barely-there colours—continued to dominate in New York. However, despite the abundance of one-colour manicures, CND, M.A.C, and Essie produced some very exciting nail-art designs for Fall 2012.

We’re already in a frenzy over Chanel’s new pale polish that’s conveniently called “Frenzy” | Hollywood yohana

Having thoroughly fallen in love with their gemstone brows, it only took a day to find something else to obsess over from Chanel’s Fall 2012 beauty offerings. Are you ready? It’s “Frenzy,” a pale mushroom shade that’s due on counters this fall. Just when we were about to claim exhaustion over neutral nail polishes, the Chanel effect hits. Hard.
Makeup artist Peter Philips chose the shade because it coordinated with the powder he applied to eyes and cheek—a lavender-taupe colour called “Notorious.” That may seem like an odd colour for blush but when you see it on, it works: Phillips created a look that’s so perfectly contoured it almost looks like the models were sculpted out of marble.


An “army of beautiful girls” at Greta Constantine | Hollywood yohana

With bleached-out brows being a huge beauty story from Milan, Greta Constantine showed its support for the trend with a brow-less “army of beautiful girls.” However, instead of bleach, brow hair was blocked out with the use of Pros-Aide adhesive. M.A.C senior artist Melissa Gibson explained that by taking away the characteristics that eyebrows provide, all the models look alike—resulting in a “mechanical, almost science fiction–like” aesthetic. Eyes were blacked out with M.A.C Chromaline in “Black Black” and then given a shimmering shot of M.A.C Pigment in “Gold Metal” to prevent the look from being flat, but also to add a “hint of glamour.” Cheeks were kept bare and a salmon-pink shade of lipstick (M.A.C lipstick in “Hue”) brought a bit of beauty back to the overall look. Gibson explained: “We’re playing not on the ugly, but the sinister parts of beauty. You have to take it all away and then add specific elements back in.”
When it came to hair, the buzzword flying around backstage was “texturized.” To prep models’ hair before styling, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Fresh Dust dry shampoo was used to give bulk and texture—a step that would usually be done by hairspray. L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist Daniel of Salon Daniel noted that the advantage of dry shampoo is that there’s no worry of over-saturating the hair with product, a definite requirement for the style at Greta Constantine, which was intended to look extremely sculptural and clean. Daniel wanted to complement the strength and structure of the clothes with a hairstyle that commanded just as much attention—a so-called “touch of evil.” The slicked-back style included a hidden ponytail at the crown, with hair pulled and pinned from the front and sides to cover it up.


We join the Tips Nail Bar team and go behind-the-scenes to do nails at Lucian Matis | Hollywood yohana

My obsession with everything nails has been well-documented over the last few months, so you can only imagine the backflips of joy that occurred when top manicurist Leeanne Colley called, asking me to be part of her team for the Lucian Matis Fall 2012 show. Colley’s salon—Tips Nail Bar—is widely regarded as one of the best places in Toronto to get your nails done, as she and her staff approach manicures like an art form. Of course, it also helps that they’re frequently styling nails for fashion editorials (our covers included!), runway shows and ad campaigns across the country.


Dark, 1920s drama at Chloé Comme Parris | Hollywood yohana

Moody and dramatic, the inspiration for makeup at Chloé Comme Parris was a 1920s aesthetic mixed with an “if you had a lot of money to dress up in black grungy clothes” sentiment. Grace Lee, lead makeup artist for Maybelline New York Canada, started by slightly lightening the tone of each model’s face with Maybelline Fit Me Liquid Foundation for a fresh, porcelain effect. Then dark purple eyeshadow—Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24Hr Cream Gel Shadow in “Pomegranate Punk”—was applied to the eye, followed by Maybelline Color Sensational Lipstick in “Mauve-ulous.” Both were layered in an almost translucent manner to give the eyes a hollowed out (think Clara Bow) look. Brown mascara kept lashes soft, however the lips were fully saturated with a rich coat of the same plum shade Lee used on the eyes.

This deep plum colour was echoed in the nails, done by Melissa Forrest from Tips Nail Bar in partnership with Essie. Two coats of “Wicked” nail polish were given an artful spin via toothpick: a circular pattern was dragged through the still-wet polish resulting in a carved out, fully textured manicure.
The hair, on the other hand, was a decidedly relaxed affair. Redken artist Jorge Joao explained that he wanted it to look like the models had braided their hair, gone to sleep, and then awoken with perfectly-out-of-place strands and a slight tousle to the entire look. To give hair the necessary texture, Joao applied Redken Powder Grip 03 hair powder before twisting it up in a knot braid that encircled the entire head.


Near-futurism | Hollywood yohana

Meaning: A concern with the events of the future, coupled with a belief that the future is… now.
Usage: “The current wave of literary near futurism comes at a time when the printed book — and the very act of traditional reading — seems under siege by digital technology.” — New York Times, The 10th Annual Year in Ideas, 2010
You should know it because: Gary Shteyngart, at an International Festival of Authors talk yesterday, joked that his 2010 novel Super Sad True Love Story made him a “Nostradamus of three months from now.” Indeed, since his dystopic romance came out, he’s proven eerily right about significant things, like credit defaults and the #Occupy protests in city parks everywhere.
The world has become so unpredictable—okay, unstable—that guessing at the near future is as difficult, maybe more difficult, than peering into some far-off state of things. As the Times noted, Shteyngart isn’t the only writer tackling it; did you read Jennifer Egan’s A Visit From The Goon Squad? It was another of last year’s most-read, most-discussed books, and it was set at a similar diagonal angle, the same short distance, from the present.
And in the design sphere, I’m kind of into Near Future Laboratory, a think/make design and research network focusing on digital interaction designs based on “weak signals” from the fringes of digital culture, where the near-future already exists. If that’s too headspinning for a Monday, watch YACHT’s double-feature music video for “Utopia/ Dystopia (The Earth is on Fire)” again. Close enough.


Denis Gagnon mixes it up with a fun, flirty, and floral Spring 2012 collection | | Hollywood yohana

Denis Gagnon Spring 2012

A 15-minute film that had us whispering qu’est ce que c’est? to our seatmates wasn’t an ideal way to close out LG Fashion Week (though the dramatic sponsor shots—champagne and Birks jewels—undoubtedly pleased certain peeps in the crowd) but all was forgiven when Montreal designer Denis Gagnon finally marched out his stellar Spring 2012 lineup. We saw flirty mini floral prints, avant-garde versions of the traditional tux, satin rompers, sharp capri pants, blouses with sheer backs (perfect for making dramatic exits), kicky checks, parachute dresses, and dominatrix-style leather straps and harnesses. Gagnon mixed up a garden variety of masculine and feminine looks, a nice departure from his signature dark and moody aesthetic. Models skipped and twirled down the runway, and even blew a few kisses. Optimism? Joy? Spirit? Now, that’s something we hope blooms year round.

Dare to bare at Mélissa Nepton’s transparent LG debut | Hollywood yohana

Melissa Nepton Spring 2012

Mélissa Nepton’s signature layers were noticeably scaled back from previous collections, and replaced with transparency for Spring 2012. The distinctly feminine collection of draped silk, flowing chiffon blouses, and twist-wrap dresses seemed like several outings of the same look—however, that look can be figure flattering for many shapes, which of course is the plus we’re all going for.

Cynthia Rowley hits Toronto in search of real women | Hollywood yohana

Kellogg’s Special K Start Something Fabulous presentation with Cynthia Rowley during LG Fashion Week

Judging from the three traffic-stopping cocktail dresses at the Kellogg’s Special K Start Something Fabulous presentation, red just might be the new black. Hosted by Monika Schnarre, this event brought New York–based designer Cynthia Rowley to Toronto’s LG Fashion Week for the first time following a nation-wide search to find three everyday women who exude self-empowerment and a passion for life. “These women were chosen because their personal stories speak to so many [of us] and really demonstrate that living a healthy, balanced lifestyle is achievable,” said Rowley. Besides having their photos splashed across Special K boxes (coming to a breakfast table near you), this winning trio also modeled their custom-made little red dresses for a packed crowd in the tents. Veronic Bertrand (from Rockland, Ontario) rocked an asymmetrical hemline; Mika Fryling (from Burnaby B.C.) sported a one-shouldered look; and Melanie Boucher (from Ottawa) showed off flirty ruffles.
“Red is a powerful colour,” said Rowley the following day when we met up for a chat. “It’s sexy and it can be classic.” What would she design for herself? “A red leather dress. Not tight, really classic, and sophisticated.” Clearly, she has found her inner rockstar.


Über graphics meet the Fair Isle in Line’s stellar fall collection | Hollywood yohana

Line has us covered for all sorts of cozy knits come fall. Combined with slimmer underpinnings the collection features knobby knits in rich eggplants, oranges, and greens. The best looks were schoolboy inspired—picture: über graphic-meets-Fair Isle knits topping untucked oxford shirts and bulky trousers. The results were just as successful when sweaters were layered atop sweaters (shocker!) and paired with a sheen-y (but not quite metallic) skinny pant.
And while our ever-picky eyes couldn’t help but focus on the somewhat puzzling inclusion of fur-knuckled fingerless gloves (nor the redundant black leather leggings, if we’re being honest), we have a mile high ‘want’ list of stylish Line knits for fall.


Ponytails and eyelashes get ’60s volume at Joe Fresh | Hollywood yohana

The Joe Fresh girl is always pretty, in a never-ambitious and always-achievable sort of way. After all, when your product is sold at grocery stores across the country, it’s best to avoid making a statement with a bleached eyebrow or dreadlocked hair. But that’s not to say Joe Fresh has to be completely vanilla: the beauty inspiration for their Fall 2012 show was Blow-Up, a sultry, swinging film from the ‘60s.
For Grace Lee, lead makeup artist for Maybelline New York Canada, the ‘60s style translated into a look that was all about the lashes. “Joe’s not about creating excess,” she said when asked if false lashes would be used. Instead, three different Maybelline mascaras were applied to ensure full coverage, volume, and length. “It’s up to my team to get every single lash possible, in every corner. The girls are not even going to know they had these lashes to begin with!” A bit of smoky eyeliner was also used to accentuate the density of the lashline, but the rest of the eye was bare. Lee did, however, apply a hand-blended highlighter to the face, made by mixing Maybelline Baby Lips lip balm with Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24Hr Cream Gel Shadow in “Too Cool”—a concoction we totally dig.
And speaking of things we dig: the hair! Redken artist Jorge Joao created a ‘60s-inspired style with movement and texture that was still a look “you could see on the street.” After securing a low ponytail with hair from the base of the neck, the rest of the hair was heavily backcombed to give a huge pop of volume on top. The ears were kept covered—another ‘60s reference—and the ponytail tie was wrapped with hair to finish off the look.

And the CFDA Fashion Icon Award goes to… Johnny Depp? | Hollywood yohana

Looks like all those years of fedoras and pirate hats have finally paid off for Johnny Depp, who was announced last night as the winner of the CFDA’s Fashion Icon Award. Depp is the first man to win the award, which will be presented in June.
While the actor’s style has always been questionable entertaining, he seems a bit of a peculiar choice compared to the more obvious past winners like Lady Gaga, Sarah Jessica Parker, Iman and Kate Moss. We do love Depp’s penchant for headwear (and oh how trendy it is this season, ahem, Marc Jacobs), but has he ever made a mary-jane Manolo fly off the shelves? We didn’t think so.
As for the serious fashion nods, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen received a much-deserved nomination for The Row as Womenswear Designer of the Year. Of course, the twin designers face some serious competition with Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler both vying for the same award. While the rest of the list of nominees and honorees makes sense, we’ve got to ask: Is it Johnny’s sex appeal that helped him make the cut?
The Cut: “And the Fashion Icon award, which will go to Johnny Depp, yes that Johnny Depp. He’s the first guy to ever receive the honor, and who is more deserving?” [The Cut]
Glamour: “This year the nominating committee (full disclosure, I’m a member of it) decided Depp, the only man in the world who can pull of a denim manicure like it ain’t no thing, was deserving.” [Glamour]
Randi Bergman, online editor: “What I want to know is why, after all these years of unfailing hotness, did they finally decide to award his looks now that his skin has once and for all started to show his leathery age? He best be dressing up as Cry Baby for the occasion.”