After Monday’s
Dior mess, we could only hope to have our faith restored by the rest of the collections at Paris Couture Week. And we got our wish with the stellar back-to-back
Givenchy and
Chanel shows last night.
In his typical presentation format,
Riccardo Tisci showcased, yet again, why his designs could more accurately be described as works of art. Ten painstakingly detailed gowns were adorned with feathers, fringe, plumes, pearls, zippers and beading, and ranged in colour from beige to white (a break from the designer’s usual proclivity for darkness). Accented waistlines, bodice cutouts and sheer skirts exemplified Tisci’s own description of his collection as “pure couture.”
Later in the evening,
Karl Lagerfeld’s collection for Chanel was showcased against a sparkling, neon-outlined recreation of Place Vendôme at the Grand Palais. In the centre, a glass statue of a suited
Coco Chanel held court. A grand showcase of the enduring Chanel suit (shown in navy, fuchsia, grey and black), the collection effortlessly straddled the classicism of the storied house and the modern strides of its current designer. And did we mention that the heels lit up?
WHAT THEY SAID:
Derek Blasberg on Givenchy: “To anyone who is curious about the relevance of couture in a modern age, I encourage them to see the Givenchy couture show. Wowza!”
Karl Lagerfeld on Chanel: “I like the idea of metamorphosis—a female evolution from boyish to woman.”
Suzy Menkes, the International Herald Tribune, on Givenchy: “Mr. Tisci’s vision of asking the impossible from his ateliers is part of the story. But the main thread of his collection is the link to those few, rare customers who are searching for the exceptional. And that suddenly seems like 21st century haute couture.”
Jeanne Beker on Chanel: “Elegant, mysterious, and ultimately seductive.”
Alexandra Shulman, editor-in-chief of British Vogue, on Chanel: “The main thing was that it was very Mary Poppins-like—an extravagant governess, it was strict.”
WHAT WE SAID:
Susie Sheffman, fashion director, on Givenchy: “Ricardo Tisci brings us a brave new world of fantasy dressing that’s just right for uber-chic, modern day fairy princesses. It was, at the same time, undeniably frothy and feminine yet super-streamlined.”
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