National treasures: Over the past 35 years, these Canadian innovators have been making their beauty mark at home and abroad| Hollywood yohana

National treasures: Over the past 35 years, these Canadian innovators have been making their beauty mark at home and abroad

To coincide with FASHION’s 35th anniversary we’re taking a look back at some Canadian beauty trailblazers that have made waves throughout the country and abroad over the past 35 years. Brands such as M.A.C, Ojon, Moroccanoil and Cargo may have started small, but are now recognized around the globe and have been providing consumers with makeup products and tips for decades. Talent-wise, from Kristjan Hayden to Grace Lee to Greg Wencel (and more!), Canadian-born hairstylists and makeup artists have left their mark on top brands and stars—including Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, Gwyneth Paltrow, Gisele and Kristen Stewart. And the ever-growing green beauty industry is yet another area that Canadians excel at: brands like RMS Beauty, Consonant and Bite Beauty & Sula are getting noticed for their eco-friendly and all-natural approach.

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: Dewy, metallic skin and crimped Venice Beach hair at Chloé Comme Parris | Hollywood yohana

Chloe Comme Parris Spring 2013 backstage beauty

It was dewy skin like we’ve never seen before for Chloé Comme Parris Spring 2013, where the theme was California’s Venice Beach and models looked like they’d just emerged from the water. “It’s all about layering different kinds of textures to create this really beautiful, metallic skin,” explained M.A.C makeup key Melissa Gibson. To start, she used M.A.C Cosmetics Mineralize Charged Water Face and Body Lotion ($40, ) followed by Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer ($22, )—though dabbed only where necessary. The almost supernatural glow, however, came courtesy of Mineralize Skinfinish in “Soft and Gentle” ($34, ) which Gibson generously applied with a brush “literally all over the face.” “Gorgeous Gold” and “Nylon” eyeshadow ($18, ) brought some brightness to the eyes, with a focus on applying pigment at the inner corners for a glowing highlight. Lips were lightly painted with dusty-pink “Please Me” lipstick ($18, ), mixed with a bit of concealer as to slightly mute the colour. And because the makeup was all about looking gorgeous after a day at the beach, Melissa Gibson brushed Gloss Texture (available at M.A.C Cosmetics Pro stores only) into the lashes to mimic the effect of water, foregoing mascara completely. The Gloss Texture was also liberally dabbed on the side of the face and the nose providing both a touch of shine and completing the fresh, dewy texture.
It was almost impossible to not guess Venice Beach as Chloé Comme Parris’ inspiration after seeing the long, wavy hair, which was styled by Charise Bauman, lead hair stylist for Aveda Institute Toronto. After giving a bit of grip and volume with Aveda Pure Abundance Style Prep ($24, ) Bauman set the hair in tiny loose braids, using a very clever technique to secure each one without the telltale pinch that hair elastics can leave behind: “We backcombed [each braid] with a fine-toothed comb,” she explained. To keep as much of the crimped texture in the hair when removing the braids, Charise Bauman brushed each one out with a paddle brush instead of unraveling it and further disguised the straight unbraided ends with a quick twist of the flatiron. One braid remained—which was used to pull the hair back into a deep side part—and Aveda Air Control hair spray ($24, ) finished the look, chosen for its matte texture and light hold.

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: It’s all about aerodynamic hair and makeup at Sid Neigum | Hollywood yohana

Sid Neigum backstage beauty makeup Spring 2013

“It’s more about a mood than a theme,” said M.A.C makeup key Melissa Gibson of the beauty look for Sid Neigum’s Spring 2013 show. Featuring a strong eyebrow, smoky eyes and matte skin, Gibson referenced Helmut Newton and “Cindy Crawford in the ’90s” as inspiration. “It’s not just a heavy black smoky eye…there’s an edge to it, the fleck of grey metallic in there brightens it up for spring and summer.” To build this graphic-yet-soft look, she used a mix of three M.A.C eyeshadows–“Carbon,” “Print” and “Typographic” ($18 each, )—diffusing the pigment across the eye and blending out any straight lines. Fluidline eyeliner in “Blacktrack” ($18, ) was also diffused at the lashline and lashes were curled and given two coats of mascara for extra drama. But it was two winged-out lines across the brows that completed the look, which was a last minute addition from Gibson: “At the end I threw on that eyebrow and that did it!”
Equally aerodynamic was the hair, which was pulled back in a low ponytail and covered with a nylon stocking headwrap. “I don’t know if we’ve actually developed an official term—I want to refrain from calling it a doo-rag!” said Charise Bauman, lead hair stylist for Aveda Institute Toronto. She prepped the sleek look by applying Aveda Light Elements Smoothing Fluid ($27,) to wet hair and blowdrying throughout. Quarter-inch sections of hair were flatironed to further polish the look and then the hair was secured in a tight ponytail at the nape of the neck. Nylon stockings—“Just your basic girls’ nylon stocking!”—were deconstructed, wrapped around the head and tied to the ponytail. The final step was disguising the ends of the stocking by wrapping a section of hair over it. While this hair-around-the-hair-elastic trick is nothing new, Bauman offered a tip to make it absolutely foolproof: “I think when women have short layers it can be hard to get that extra bit of hair [to wrap], so I take that subsection first, wrap it around a quarter-inch curling iron and then [hair] spray it in place—sometimes you don’t even need to use [bobby] pins!”

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: A twisted hair and modern take on ’70s makeup at Jeremy Laing | Hollywood yohana

Jeremy Laing Spring 2013 backstage beauty hair makeup

While the details on Jeremy Laing’s Spring 2013 collection echoed the ’90s, the beauty was tinged with elements from the ’70s. “Jeremy wanted the girls to look really handsome and sort of have this ’70s-eqsue feeling,” explained Greg Wencel, Cover Girl makeup pro. Also at play was a mix of textures: glossy eyelids contrasted with matte skin, which had been prepped with Cover Girl + Olay Simply Ageless Serum Primer ($18, ) to keep shine at a minimum. Instead of eyeshadow, Wencel used Cover Girl Cheekers blush in “Iced Cappuccino” and “smoked it out on the eye and under the eye socket.” He then used the same blush to sculpt a high cheek bone but diffused it for a soft, modern effect. Because lashes and brows were left bare Wencel added some dimension to the eye with Cover Girl LiquilineBlast in “Brown Blaze” ($10, ), but applied it by putting the product on the back of his hand and picking up some of the pigment with a fluffy brush. The final step was glossing up the eye with a dab of clear Cover Girl WetSlicks lip gloss ($7, ) for what Wencel called “a ’70s high gloss shine.”

The balance between the ’70s and the ’90s continued with the hair, which featured a low ponytail, a deep side part and three cornrow braids—which were actually twisted strands of hair. For grip and texture Justin German, Pantene Pro-V consulting stylist, used a mix of Sebastian Shine Crafter Moldable Wax ($19, at salons) and Pantene Pro-V Normal to Thick Smooth Definition Gel ($7, ) before twisting two stands of hair together to achieve the coiled effect.

Beauty Fix: How to prep for an after-work date without leaving your desk and more answers to your beauty questions | Hollywood yohana

Beauty Fux

Every week we take on your questions about makeup, skincare, hair and more and provide all the answers. This week, Beauty Fix is tackling questions about flyaway hair, peeling fingernails and the problems caused by a too-bright concealer. Plus: the only two products you need to prep for an after-work date while you’re still in the office. 

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013: Super fresh skin and ’60s hair at Pink Tartan (plus, some pink hair too!) | Hollywood yohana

Pink Tartan Charlotte Free Spring 2013 makeup backstage beauty

The inspiration:
Grace Lee, Maybelline New York’s lead makeup artist: “We did a statement lip last season, it was all about that oxblood red lip, so [Kim Newport-Mimran] wanted to do the opposite. They look über, über fresh. Nothing about this makeup is about strong features… it’s super sheer, super pretty, super fresh.”
Jorge Joao, Redken lead stylist: “It’s playful, something out of the ’60s—like how a little girl would want to push her hair out of the way. [The hair has] natural texture and an aggressive side sweep with the pin holding it into place.”
Top tips:
- The key to dewy skin is moisturizer—and lots of it! “It’s almost like she’s marinating in it!” said Grace Lee of just how much she applied to Charlotte Free, Maybelline New York’s international spokesmodel. Lee also used Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream in place of foundation to add further glow and hydration.
- Don’t be afraid to blend two products to create the perfect hue: both the blush and lip colour for Pink Tartan Spring 2013 were custom mixes of pink and taupe shades.
- Cut down on styling time by using a product that serves double duty: Joao sprayed Redken Fabricate 03 Heat-Active Texturizer before setting the hair with a 1 inch curling iron.
- Barrettes are back for Spring 2013—but two extra-long bobby pins can also keep a side-part snugly in place.

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: Coral lips that are more than matte at Joe Fresh | Hollywood yohana

Joe Fresh Spring 2013 backstage beauty makeup

The look:
Grace Lee, Maybelline New York’s lead makeup artist: “Joe Fresh is known for that really fresh colour. [Joe Mimran] told me that because there’s a lot of whites and metallics for spring he wanted to do a poppy colour. [The lipstick] is petty much that perfect, perfect coral.”
Jorge Joao, Redken lead stylist: “We created a low ponytail and released some of the slack to have it droop a little bit, to give it a vintage feel. And from there we added a little bit of texture on the side, to make it more ‘now’ and to give it something fresh and urban.”
Top tips:
- The Joe Fresh Spring 2013 look takes the matte lip to the next level. With direction to make it look “like the girls had been in their lipstick all day long,” Grace Lee brushed translucent powder around the lip line after applying Maybelline Color Sensational Vivids lipstick in “Vibrant Mandarin,” which helped to diffuse the colour and give it that worn-in look. “We wanted to make it look almost like chalk,” she explained.

- There was no blush used in this look, instead it was all about fresh, clean skin. To give some dimension and glow, Lee mixed clear Maybelline Baby Lips balm with Eye Studio Colour Tattoo in “Too Cool” and applied it at the inner corners of the eye, down the bridge of the nose and at the high points of the cheeks.
- Use a small brush or pencil when filling your brows—like Maybelline Define-a-Brow—for extra precision. Instead of a solid application over the entire brow, draw on individual hairs to keep it from looking too heavy-handed.
- Rather than spending time trying to craft to perfect messy ponytail, it’s easier to deconstruct a polished pony. Jorge Joao lightly tugged at pieces to loosen them, spraying Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray as he went to ensure proper placement.

Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: We test drive the 1-and-a-half-inch nails at Ashtiani | Hollywood yohana

Toronto Fashion Week nail art Ashtiani Spring 2013 essie nail polish

Last season I had the chance to work backstage during Toronto Fashion Week with the team from Tips Nail Bar. This season, the tables were turned: Essie invited me to experience what it’s like to be a model (er, nail-wise, that is) by getting the look for Ashtiani Spring 2013 applied on my own nails. Rita Remark, the lead Essie nail artist for World MasterCard Fashion Week, was leading the charge backstage, working with the team from Pinky’s Nails to design and apply creative manicures for seven shows throughout the week. (That’s more than 850 nails that need to be prepped and painted beforehand!)
As soon as I arrive Rita sits me down and gets to work. After all, when you’re backstage it’s all about doing as much as possible as quickly as possible: With a dozen-plus models per show and only a few hours blocked off for hair and makeup, you’ll often find the nail techs squeezed between stations, kneeling at the models’ feet in a scramble to get every last nail finished.

Beauty magnified: Examining Lanvin’s strong yet simple Fall 2012 runway look | Hollywood yohana

Beauty magnified: Examining Lanvin’s strong yet simple Fall 2012 runway look

Alber Elbaz celebrated his 10th anniversary at Lanvin with a collection for Fall 2012 that featured bold colour, feminine silhouettes and loads of embellishment. The Lanvin beauty team—which included hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Pat McGrath—accented the look with thickly lined eyes and soft hair. The result was a strong yet simple look: complexions were clean and glowing, the hair had a subtle bend and mouths were lightly dabbed with lip balm. Pat McGrath made this beauty statement all about the eyes. Inspired by the idea of a pen and ink illustration, she drew an exaggerated black wing that covered the lid and extended out. Read on as we examine the runway look for Lanvin Fall 2012 in full, complete with tips, tricks and the five products you need to try the hair and makeup at home.

Drew Barrymore rumoured to be working on a makeup line with Wal-Mart | Hollywood yohana

Drew Barrymore Wal-Mart Makeup collection

With a recent marriage and baby behind her, change seems to be what Drew Barrymore is all about these days. Today rumours have surfaced that she’s reportedly working on a makeup line for Wal-Mart.
According to WWD, the actress—who has been a Cover Girl face since 2007—will end her contract with the brand in January in order to strike out on her own in the world of cosmetics. Sources say she has been working with Intercos, an Italian supplier for color cosmetics and makeup. It will be the first time Barrymore has gone into the realm of creating cosmetics and the forthcoming line will be exclusively sold at Wal-Mart.
Lest you think her talents are only those of the acting/directing/producing kind, Drew Barrymore has worked with Lancôme in the past and served as co-creative director and model for her work with Cover Girl. She also recently collaborated with Charlotte Gainsbourg for Tommy Hilfiger—so it’s safe to say she knows a thing or two about fashion and beauty.
Here’s hoping that Drew Barrymore’s cosmetics line will include products to help us achieve the porcelain skin and red lips that she rocked throughout much of the ‘90s. And while she’s no longer a vegetarian, we do wonder if it will include an eco-friendly approach.

Robert Pattinson follows in Kristen Stewart’s footsteps: He’s signed a deal to promote perfumes with Dior | Hollywood yohana

If imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, consider Kristen Stewart to be blushing. Stewart—the face of Balenciaga’s Florabotanica—can now offer her boyfriend and fictional vampire husband, Robert Pattinson, some tips on being the face of a fragrance because he has reportedly signed a contract with Dior.
RPatz will be modeling for men’s fragrance campaigns (unlike a certain Brad Pitt we know) and a source told E! News, “Rob likes the brand.” We consider that statement has to be true because Robert wore Dior Homme while walking both the red carpets at the Teen Choice Awards and the Cannes Film Festival.
Since immortalizing himself in the Twilight saga as vampire heartthrob Edward Cullen, Robert Pattinson hasn’t signed a single celebrity endorsement deal—making this reported $12 million contract a first for his career.

Beauty Fix: How to keep your legs from looking ghostly all winter long and more answers to your beauty questions! | Hollywood yohana

Beauty Fix Colour Change

Every week we take on your questions about makeup, skincare, hair and more and provide all the answers. This week, Beauty Fix is engaging in some colour theory. Stuck in a barely-there-pink nail polish rut? We have a colour that will inspire you to change it up at your next manicure. Bored of contouring with bronzer? We have a fix for that too. 

Nail Corner: SpooOOOoooky Halloween nail art | Hollywood yohana

halloween nail art day of the dead skulls

The clock is ticking, and if you’re still scrambling to create a Halloween costume it may be time to switch efforts over to your nails. Halloween nail art is an ideal, last-minute way to dress up for this candy-filled holiday and there are plenty of options that take almost no time or effort to do. (Seriously!) First option: do-it-yourself decals. Sally Hansen has a complete series of Halloween-themed Salon Effects nail polish strips, meaning in less than ten minutes your fingers can go from plain to patterned. For those who are more comfortable with nail art, dress up each nail with a Day of the Dead skull, Jack-O-Lantern face or black cat. This week Nail Corner combined Halloween decals with nail art for a somewhat spooky and definitely festive manicure.

Beyonce debuts bangs and Obama hoop earrings. Stop everything! | Hollywood yohana

Beyonce Debuts Bangs and Obama Hoop Earrings

Beyonce didn’t let the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy stop her from going out with a bang(s) over the weekend in New York City.
The singer/queen of our hearts, who we’re used to seeing with many different and new hairstyles, stepped out with freshly cut bangs to accompany husband Jay Z to a Brooklyn Nets basketball game on Saturday night.
Wearing Giuseppe Zanotti heels, an Yves Saint Laurent ring and a geometric printed top and pants by Tibi, we think she’s been taking a look at some of the prints that have recently been on trend for fall.

Beyonce joins the likes of Britney Spears and Emma Stone who have also been seen recently sporting bangs. But unlike some other celebrities Queen Bey accessorized her new mod, blunt blonde fringe with some pretty awesome bling. In case you had any doubt as to whom Beyonce might be voting for in the American election tomorrow, take a closer look at the big hoops dangling from her ears. Inside the big “O” of the earrings designed by Erika Pena spell “Bama”.
She’s been wearing these for a few weeks now, and based on her past support of Barack Obama over the years, there’s no doubt in our minds that B will be voting for O come tomorrow.

Cover Girl announces DJ duo Nervo as their newest nail art spokesmodels | Hollywood yohana

Cover Girl Nervo Nail Art

Get ready to say hello to two faces that you will be seeing a lot of in the coming months. Cover Girl has announced a new addition to their ever-growing list of spokesmodels and this time it’s a two-fer: Australian DJ sister duo Nervo has just been signed to represent the global beauty brand in promotional and digital campaigns.
With this announcement, it seems that Cover Girl is making a calculated move away from adding well-known faces to their roster and instead focusing on up-and-coming talent. The Nervo girls may not have the same name recognition as the brand’s other ambassadors (which includes Taylor Swift, Queen Latifah and Sofia Vergara, to name a few) but that’s likely about to change. Aside from releasing their own music, Nervo has worked with top talent like Miley Cyrus, Kylie Minogue and The Pussycat Dolls and they have a DJ residency in Las Vegas. Nervo also toured with Britney Spears and Nicki Minaj on the Femme Fatale tour.
It’s definitely an edgy choice for Cover Girl, and one we’re eager to watch unfold: Nervo’s first job will be to promote the launch of Cover Girl Outlast Stay Brilliant Nail Gloss with—what else?—a series of nail art designs. Considering just how colourful the campaign’s first ad is, we can’t wait to see what Nervo nail art will look like.

Beauty Fix: The trick to undoing too many sprays of perfume and other answers to your beauty questions | Hollywod yohana

Beauty Fix

Every week we take on your questions about makeup, skincare, hair and more and provide all the answers. This week, Beauty Fix is focused on making it last—or not. Some things, like a great makeup application, a brightly-coloured lip or an ombré hair dye are worth preserving and we have the tips to help you do so. On the flip side, we also have a foolproof method for curing one of the most common beauty errors. 

H&M Spring 2013 look book: Your new dream wardrobe in 33 photos | Hollywood yohana

HM Spring 2013

With less than a week to go before we can get our paws on the Maison Martin Margiela for H&M collaboration, the Swedish mega-brand has given us another reason to drool, and this time it’s the Spring 2013 collection. The latest from the brand is a western inspired extremely embellished (and affordable as always) collection of mini skirts, leather jackets, and baseball caps.

Taking some serious inspiration from the Spring 2013 runways, there are references to the Wild Wild West, as we saw at Derek Lam as well as fruity pineapple accents like we saw on the Moschino Cheap & Chic runway. But we’ll never complain about be able to afford a designer inspired piece and that’s what makes H&M so perfect for the mandatory wardrobe update when spring hits.
The has has given tried and tested pieces like the leather mini and pencil skirt a whole new life by adding embellished leather accents and long tassels to step up the basics’ game. Entire monochromatic looks in red and black fit in perfectly for spring (case in point: we saw one colour looks day after day during fashion month), and turquoise stone bolo ties make us excited to embrace our inner cowgirl as soon as the snow melts away.

Gap Holiday Campaign 2012: Michael J. Fox, Aubrey Plaza, Rufus Wainwright and others showcase that love comes in every shade (of cozy knits) | Hollywood yohana

Gap Holiday Campaign 2012

It isn’t a true holiday season until you’re bundled in cozy knit mittens, toques and layered sweaters. Or at least, that’s what the latest Gap holiday campaign 2012 proves to us. In keeping with the tradition of having A+ holiday ads (remember the year of Love Train?) the American company has taken portraits of celebrities in colourful knitted goods.
The campaign is titled “Love Comes in Every Shade” and aims to show a-typical relationships and the many forms of love ranging from puppy love, best friend love and even regular ole romantic love. From rapper Nas in a puffy vest with his dad showing off fatherly love to Rufus Wainwright in khakis alongside his husband Jörn Weisbrodt being the example of wedded bliss.

Other celebrities included are Michael J. Fox and wife Tracy Pollan, The Atomics, and British actor Jack Huston (with his cute dog!). The holiday collection features two-tone leather gloves, bright pants are colour blocked with classic V-neck sweaters, and fitted boyfriend shirts—all playing into Gap’s classic prep school vibe.
While the holidays may technically be over a month away, the Gap holiday campaign 2012 has us convinced it’s time to hop aboard the holiday train and we won’t be getting off until 2013.