Welcome to the jungle at Hussein Chalayan, Roland Mouret, Vionnet, Roger Vivier, and Lanvin | yohana


Finding your seat at a Paris fashion show can sometimes pose un problème: some spaces are as dark as haunted houses (Hussein Chalayan) while others are so tiny that introductions often aren’t necessary before making body contact (Carven). Finding my seat at Roland Mouret proved to be a rather glam experience; the ornate ballroom in L’Hôtel Westin is the perfect place to rise and shine. It’s like freshly squeezed OJ served in a gilded chalice. The show was very Parisienne chic (tailored cropped jackets paired with body skimming pencil skirts, flirty ruffles, the perfect cap sleeved shift dress in several shades of blue, sexy peek-a-boo accents on hemlines and playful sartorial accents like the not-so evil eyes) though there was one surprising models-they’re-just-like-us moment: the cone-heeled shoes squeaked with every step.
Next up: Hussein Chalayan, who appeared as a well-dressed server (bowtie and all) and proceeded to hand out bubbly to the models as they made the runway rounds. Chalayan is a true artiste and like any avant garde performance–this one included a live Belgian choir, two people wrapped head to toe in black and a video of two swirling spots­–you are entertained but leave with a slew of unanswered questions. A trip over to the Vionnet presentation was a pretty palette cleanser of floral prints, signature draping, whimsical bees and butterflies hanging from dresses and mesh booties, oceans of midnight blue, white, green and even a shout-out to America the beautiful with a smattering of stars. Speaking of which, Nicholas Kirkwood for Pollini’s presentation was held where A-listers rest their haute heads – The Ritz. After chatting with Kirkwood (he’s a delight!) and browsing the collab capsule collection of patent two-tone loafers, leather and straw bags, short stacked suede heels (a new height on the radar this spring) and more, I retired to the garden for a few blissful moments.
Over at Roger Vivier things were heating up; not only was the presentation room heat-stroke central but the Spring ’12 collection channeled the jungle: juicy tropical hues, wood accents, heavy beading, even a few monkeys swung onto the scene. Though the best accessories of the day were at Lanvin’s sweat lodge (er, tent). Each flushed attendee was given a black fan to flap during the 45-minute wait. Even Julianne Moore and Kristen Scott Thomas got in on the action, proving that Hollywood heavyweights aren’t too posh to perspire.
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