Rear-view zips at Jeremy Laing, DKNY’s super slick leather, bright bright brights at Thakoon, and Hilfiger does Hermès | Hollywood yohana
The constant rushing between back-to-back shows (and shows, and shows, and shows) can make fashion week feel like somewhat of a big blurry journey. Uptown, then downtown, then—where are we again? Amidst that kind of chaos, it’s nice to switch it up with a few friendly faces, which was the scene at Jeremy Laing’s show yesterday morning. Everyone from photographers Tommy Ton and Jason Hudson, to writers Amy Verner and Sarah Nicole Prickett, to cool kids Eva Michon and Matt Jackson turned out to root for one of the strongest home-team players. Cue his splendidly architectural collection, with its attention to the backside (rear-view zips, backwards button-downs, and capes) and its awesomely fresh denim velvet abstract print interspersed throughout the collection, and you’ve got one helluva brunch replacement (to thankfully be followed by one actual brunch).
Packed with enough steam, it was off to Cedar Lake dance space for DKNY’s Fall take. Upon first sit, the room felt as if it was sweltering to a literal fever pitch. But once we realized that the models were actually arriving from one wide open door to the outside, the room began to lend itself quite easily to the super slick and modern take on the Beat generation, done up in black leather rounded shoulders, lacquered wine coats, and bright-red Mary Jane heels paired with faux-fur coats.
A quick stop to Anthropologie to replace the rip in my stockings brought me to Buddakan, where Tara Subkoff’s ever arty Imitation line pulled off an Old Hollywood imitation of a magic show, complete with real magician and jack-in-the-box dancing gal.
Then, to Whole Foods for a little sit down and a mini cheesecake, and it was off again to the Plaza for Thakoon’s superb showing. Up the elevator, with Bill Cunningham holding the doors for us (“C’mon child, we’ll all get up!” Swwwwwooooon!), we entered the bathed-in-red-light ballroom. Mutterings of “something great is about to happen” were naturally confirmed, as the brightly striped and colour-blocked numbers appeared en masse. A bold lip (which according to our beauty director, Lesa Hannah, was a first for the designer) was set to match with a brighter-than-bright fuchsia Mongolian fur jacket, red leather paper-bag skirt, and backless cocktail dress. Elsewhere in outerwear, and certainly on my must-have list for fall, a camel wool coat with contrasting purple leopard collar just about slayed me for the finish.
To top off the day, Tommy Hilfiger took over the Park Avenue Armory to present a gloriously American (what else) equestrian-themed collection. With an orchestral take on “Gimme Shelter” shifting into Lana Del Ray’s “National Anthem,” solidly tailored riding jackets, slim trousers, and printed Hermès-esque dresses revealed one of his strongest collections in years.
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